Part 3: How Does Food Trigger Joy? Here are the World's Most Brilliant, Walkable Outdoor Markets [Nishiki Market Kyoto]

Nov 11

Nov 11 Part 3: How Does Food Trigger Joy? Here are the World's Most Brilliant, Walkable Outdoor Markets [Nishiki Market Kyoto]

Kyoto has historically been known as the cultural center of Japan, and Nishiki Market has historically been known as the center of food culture in Kyoto. In contrast to the variety and abundance of Tokyo, Kyoto is where the cuisine of Japan is perfected. Kyoto’s cuisine focuses on ingredients that are readily available and concentrates on their subtle, natural flavors and aromas. Nishiki Market is where we can see the traditional attention to detail and presentation that is part of the art and artistry of Japan. Kyoto lives by the motto, “we may not have the most here, we just have the best.”

While difficult to observe in Tokyo, the topographical features of Kyoto have enabled a percentage of the land to supply food for the city: 4% farmland, 74% forest, and 17% dense urban fabric. The dense urban fabric consists of low- to moderately-tall buildings arranged around the grid pattern of the city, and is bounded by a breathtaking natural environment. Kyoto’s natural beauty has been the source of inspiration for the city's creativity. These traditions are celebrated through various annual festivals. The urban fabric also reflects multiple, distinct concentrations of people and businesses around powerful private groups and institutions, such as temple complexes. This balance of urban and natural environments, create a feeling of joyful harmony.

Fertile Ohara Valley

Forest land

Bamboo grove

Skyline from Higashiyama

Nishiki Market is celebrated as the place to find many of Kyoto’s delectable treats. It is a narrow, six-block covered shopping street enclosed by more than 100 shops and restaurants ranging in size from small narrow stalls to larger two-story stores. Most specialize in a particular type of food, and almost everything sold at the market is locally grown and acquired. There are also a few small restaurants consisting of a couple of stools and a bar, as well as food stands selling ready-made food. Nishiki Market was historically a fish market that grew around an underground stream. The stream remains freezing cold throughout the year and provided a way to keep fish fresh. Far from the ocean, Kyoto had a difficult time obtaining seafood. This shifted the city’s focus to produce. There are 41 kinds of traditional vegetables cultivated in the fertile soils and fresh water of Kyoto. The topographic features of mountains surrounding three sides of the Yamashina Basin where Kyoto is nestled, offer a unique climate. Where Japan is otherwise temperate, Kyoto has hot and humid summers as well as cold winters. The well-defined four seasons are an ideal climate for growing vegetables. Kyoto also has a large number of Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines where vegetarian cuisine has been traditional for centuries.

During our visit, we spent our time smiling and pointing our way through Nishiki Market in search of tasty things to eat. The restaurant and shop owners excitedly introduced us to locally-grown, flame-orange carrots, turnips, bamboo sprouts, fresh chestnuts, and various kinds of pickled vegetables. Our limbic systems rewarded us to a healthy dose of dopamine as we tasted tako tamgo (a small octopus whose head is stuffed with a quail egg and rice), spices, sake, sushi, and A5 Kobe beef. Our act of smiling is what helped us break down the language barrier we observed in Japan and connect with the local people. Have you ever noticed that when we smile at a stranger, the stranger almost always smiles back? This is because imitation and empathy come naturally to people.

We ended up settling into a small, family run pancake and noodle restaurant where we spent the rest of our rainy afternoon drinking beer and watching Sumo with the restaurant owners. Oxytocin enabled us to enjoy our social experience at the restaurant. Our brain rewards us for building social alliances. In fact, every experience of social belonging releases oxytocin, because belonging to a local group is important for our survival. Surprisingly, we do not instinctively know when to release joyful chemicals. It is our experiences and the neural pathways they form which determine what makes us happy. As such, joy in the moment is tied to joyful memories, think… Disney Pixar’s Inside Out. I think we loved our experience in the restaurant, because the curry flavor sparked memories of home and watching Sumo reminded us of Texas football!